We are journeying from Auckland to Gisborne, the first place in the world to see the sun rise. As we pass through Opotiki, two totems stand proudly on the water‘s edge, welcoming us through "the gateway to the East". We enter the Waioeka Gorge and drive smoothly through the twisting roads, embraced by bush.

The river travels swiftly beside us and the softness of the early evening haze accentuates the timelessness of this winding passage to Tairawhiti (Gisborne), "the coast where the sun shines across the water". When the gorge finally spits us out we are met by perpetual rows of neat, green vines.

We have arrived at New Zealand‘s Chardonnay capital. Vineyards are plentiful and cellar doors are open for tasting at many of the local wineries. Gisborne‘s warm climate is perfect for horticulture. Among the vineyards are fields of avocados, broccoli and citrus. Red roses line the periphery of the vines, an aesthetic tribute to an old way of keeping diseases at bay. Our first vineyard stop is a boutique winery which oozes charm. The owner, David Egan, welcomes us with gusto.

A tasting with this enthusiastic host is entertaining and educational. His delightful matching of wine with small surprises of blue cheese, strawberries and chocolate truffles make me feel like a child in a sweet shop. Winner of a gold platinum medal in the prestigious Wines of Asia this year, Bushmere Estate‘s 2007 Classic Chardonnay changes my unfavourable relationship with Chardonnay. Smooth and creamy, and aged in barrels sourced from three different French provinces, it is a sensation on the palate.

About half an hour from Gisborne‘s main centre, is Eastwoodhill. We clamber into a topless Jeep for a tour of the 135 hectares of sprawling parkland with the largest collection of northern hemisphere trees south of the equator.

This is said to be one of British naturalist David Bellamy‘s favourite places in the world. In the early 1900s an eccentric naturalist, Douglas Cook, spent ¬5,000 planting the trees over 55 years. While others were clearing land for farming, Cook, a tree addict, was planting 5000 different types of trees and shrubs. This, says curator Paul Wynen, was considered madder than the fact he was doing it in his birthday suit.

The Jeep takes a few sharp corners on our scenic ride and I close my eyes, much to the amusement of Wynen, who drives around them with ease. But this is a man who runs races against his mates along great oak tree branches in his spare time, and who is one of only a dozen people to have climbed the largest kauri in New Zealand, Tane Mahuta.

Along with this love of adrenalin comes an equal passion for trees. Wynen provides an insightful and fulfilling experience of the magic of this man­made wonderland. The spread of natural delights includes towering eucalyptus, majestic oaks, 42 species of birds and New Zealand‘s largest collection of flax, with 52 varieties collected from marae around the country.

At Tatapouri Beach, a beautiful wild bay typical of Gisborne‘s coast, Dean Savage welcomes us. This morning he is taking us to feed stingrays. Pulling on our waders we walk like astronauts from Tane (the land) to Tangaroa (the ocean). High tide is 7am and a small swell has muddied the water. Savage prepares to lure the rays with barracuda bait on the end of a stick. Helping him is his nephew, Jordan Savage, aged 17. Like Savage, Jordan has been taught the ways of the sea by his uncle and grandfather.

We shiver in the cold wind and keep our eyes peeled for incoming shadows. Dean, who spends his off­season filming Tangaroa for Maori Television, has plenty of sea stories to amuse us while we wait. Hearing his adventures also assure me this man, who is bringing me up close to an eagle ray, is experienced for the job.

Soon a black shadow moves towards us. Sleek, black wings break out of the surface. This magnificent creature has the flat, almost smiling mouth of a dolphin. Savage informs us eagle rays can weigh up to 350 kilos. Luckily for my nerves, this one is not. Under Savage‘s instruction I place my hand clutching the ray抯 barracuda breakfast onto the reef. It swims over my hand and sucks it up. I reach out and stroke its sleekly smooth, rubbery body.

Adding to the magic, Savage says this is a pregnant mother who could give birth to up to nine offspring. Gisborne is as rich in history as it is in wine, produce and fishing. Maori ancestors are said to have landed at the mouth of the Turanganui River in the 14th century and the British explorer Captain James Cook dropped the Endeavour‘s anchor in 1769 just off the coast of Tairawhiti.

His attempt to row to shore for provisions was met with a challenge by local tribes and he called it Poverty Bay as a result. A trip up Kaiti Hill by car, bike or foot is well worth the effort to drink in the expansive ocean view to Young Nicks Head, named after Nicholas Young, the first boy to sight land from the Endeavour‘s mast.

A statue of Cook placed here to mark 200 years since his landing is a source of much amusement for Gisborne locals A cast was taken from an existing statue at Auckland‘s former Captain Cook brewery. On the day of the unveiling, Cook‘s statue was found to be wearing an Italian sailor‘s uniform, instead of a British one. A true­to­life Cook stands downhill at Waikanae Beach.

We drive down the private dirt road to Whangara marae and are warmly welcomed by "Aunty" Anne McGuire. What a welcome this magic whaea gives. Dressed in Jandals with a wide grin and knowing eyes, Aunty McGuire is the perfect host for visiting tour groups, making them feel immediately at ease. She sings a powhiri (ceremony of welcome) to the marae‘s ancestors to keep the tikaanga (Maori custom and tradition) of this sacred place intact and we remove our shoes to enter.

The marae is stunningly constructed. The carvers ran out of space to honour all their ancestors, so many are woven into the walls. Facing us as we enter is a statue of Paikea, the inspiration for author Witi Ihimaera‘s book Whale Rider, later turned into a film.

Legend has it that in 1200, Paikea‘s brothers left him to drown at sea. He was rescued by a whale and dumped on the shores of Whangara, where he married Hiturangi. In Whale Rider the myth is brought full circle when a young girl named Paikea rescues a bull whale by riding it out to sea.

On this sunny evening, diners sit sipping Gisborne‘s wines at outdoor tables overlooking the water at the impressive collection of bars and restaurants. Locals are proud to call Gisborne home, and many trace their whakapapa back to early Maori tribes or the first European settler families. They flock to Gisborne in the lead­up to New Year for a three day festival.

Others are simply drawn to the famous surf at the superb wild beaches. Drenched in history, bathed in sunlight and producing some of the world‘s best wines, Tairawhiti is a coastal playground for the senses.